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sharrontheblender@clinicalbasicskincare.com
Acne is a genetic disease most
noticeable in teenagers and young adults which if not properly treated
may carry on into adulthood. Acne can be present in Dry, Oily, or Combination
skin and can cause permanent scarring if left untreated. Acne begins
in the pores of the face around the age of puberty because of an increase
in hormones causing excess sebum (oil) to be produced as well as an
increase in Cornebacterium Acnes an acne causing bacteria that occurs
naturally in the pores. About 50% of sebum is Triglyceride or ordinary
fat, which nourishes the bacteria. The Cornebacterium Acnes produce
an enzyme that splits the Triglycerides from the sebum into glycol used
to nourish them leaving fatty acids behind as by product. Although these
fatty acids are an aggravating factor, the severity of acne is not directly
related to the number of bacteria present or the extent of triglyceride
breakdown. Increased sebum production and increased triglyceride breakdown
occurs in every person during puberty. Severity is generally related
to genetics. Some are genetically prone to retain cells in the walls
of their pores normally shed and washed away. Since this retention is
inherited as a rule of thumb if both your parents had severe acne you
will probably have a significant case while if no one in your immediate
family had acne your case will be mild. Those born with neonatal acne
(disappears in about six months) are normally from parents who both
had acne and will develop acne near puberty. Despite these statistics
the physical as well as psychological effects can be minimized through
better understanding of acnes aggravating factors and treatments.
There are four different severities
of acne called grades. Below are the symptoms for
the four grades of acne.
Consists
of whiteheads and blackheads. |
|
Is
hard to determine and treat, the face is covered
in whiteheads and from a distance appears to
be clear but close up skin texture is rough. |
|
A mixture of whiteheads
and blackheads along with irritated lesions.
Some individuals may have a dozen or less
on each side of their face. |
|
Is considered cystic acne.
Has symptoms of Grade 1, 2, and 3 acne
but will respond to treatment faster. |
|
Then Why Do I Still Have Acne Past My Teens?
Acne may start in teenagers but the disease is by
no means limited only to adolescents. Waiting to "outgrow"
your acne can be a critical error that leads to permanent
scarring.
Does Junk Food Increase Breakouts?
There are many myths about what causes Acne. Some
say chocolate and greasy foods are major factors in
causing breakouts. There is no evidence to back up
these claims however a junk food diet high in sugar
and caffeine may produce stress which does aggravate
Acne.
What About Other Foods?
The only foods that should be avoided are ones with
excessive iodides. These iodides are excreted through
the oil glands and may irritate the lining of your
skins pores causing an Acne flare-up. Stay away from
processed dairy products, kelp, shellfish, seaweed,
and iodized salt. If you are noticing problems keep
track of what you eat and how your skin reacts.
Do My Cosmetics Cause Acne?
Unfortunately, there are many cosmetics
out on the market today that contain derivatives of
fatty acids, which are actually more potent producers
of lesions than the fatty acids produced naturally.
Consequently "Acne Cosmetica" is on the rise. A condition
normally characterized by many open (blackheads) and
closed comedones (whiteheads) dotting the cheeks, chin
and/or forehead. The only way to avoid these blemishes
are to look for products that contain only non-comedogenic
ingredients. For more information please take a look
at the article, A Note From Sharron--You
and Your Cosmetics.
Then How Do I Treat My Acne?
Acne may be treated in many different
ways; prescriptions, topical medications, oral medications,
etc. I have found the best way treat acne is to use
a combination. Starting with a simple skin care regimen
to keep you skin balanced and healthy, you can then
slowly add prescriptions, or other treatments, knowing
right away if they’re
working. The most common type of treatments are over-the-counter topical creams or gels containing benzoyl
peroxide, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or a combination
of any of the three.
Benzoyl Peroxide (BP) products
come in many different strengths for all skin types
and work by penetrating into the pores and releasing
active oxygen. This oxygen acts like a bleach: killing
bacteria and opening the acne impactions while at
the same time removing oil. It is not uncommon for
people with sensitive skin to have reactions to the
stronger formulations of Benzoyl Perodxide, and some
are even allergic. BP must be used only at night or
indoors, since it makes your skin photosensitive and
it tends to bleach fabrics if not completely dry.
Salicylic
Acid also works well and is a miracle product for those sensitive to Benzoyl
Peroxide. Unlike BP, Salicylic Acid does not bleach fabrics or make you
photosensitive, and even those with the most sensitive
skin can use it. Salicylic Acid works to loosen and
soften thick clogged pores and blackheads.
Glycolic Acids with BHA and AHA work
as an exfoliant, shedding dead skin cells, loosening
clogged pores as well as helping lighten facial discoloration
from previous breakouts. Many times glycolic comes in
creams for normal, dry and sensitive skin, or gels for
those with oily skin.
The most important rule is
"Do Not Pick." You may drive the lesion deeper into the skin or cause an infection
or scarring. If your blemishes are irritating, visit an esthetician and have
a professional extraction. Remember, follow a set regimen and be consistent
in your treatment, even when starting to see results. Acne never takes a
break, so neither can you.
Sharron Koltun, C.P.E.
Clinical-Basic Skin Care
SharronTheBlender@ClinicalBasicSkinCare.com
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